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Taiwan       
The Taiwanese English School
by Ieuan Dolby

English Education Culture in Taiwan

To see a classroom full of 5yr old and younger children, safe and secure in their high chairs, being lectured to like a group of final year physics University students would break the heart of any western parent, teacher or educator.

The Desire………. Education is taken very seriously in Taiwan, especially but not only for the male who tends to take pride of place as dictated by culture and tradition. The average mother and father see their offspring’s future prospects as proportional to the amount of education that they will receive, not so much in quality as quantity and so it is normal for children as young as the age of three to be enrolled in private schools on top of normal daily attendance. Saturdays, Sundays, evenings and holidays become periods devoted to the continuing development of the children who will see their time spent and shared between an assortment of foreign language orientated schools or nurseries, music and dance lessons, etc.

From the day that a child is born and often before one is conceived (future, intended or otherwise) parents plan, devise and arrange their children’s education. Ideas are formed about what style or type, what schools and extra classes their sons and daughters can attend and how much they can afford to spend on the twenty year plus development project. Schools are sounded out before the child’s wets his first nappy and a future career/livelihood is mapped well before the first word is said.

A western gentleman, proud to have just become a father, was recently shocked upon being questioned by relatives-in-law as to the educational route and policy that he was going to take with his son. Stunned into shocked response he muttered, “I suppose my son will go to school sometime” and “well yes, erm … learning something will be good when he’s older”. Not the sort of replies expected from people who expected educational theories and practices, school names and dates and subjects to be trotted out in knowledgeable rotation.

This constant search for perfection is frequently intermingled and confused with a parents desire to earn more money (even though they have enough), thus the need to have their offspring looked after externally during evenings and weekends. It can also be a desire to win ‘face’, to look good amongst relations, other parents or in the neighbourhood by having a child that performs better or who can proudly be said to have studied this or that subject.

This trait of ‘face’ upkeep, the efforts made to earn more money and the desire to have well-educated children all produce one fact, that Taiwan is a nation built around educational establishments. In contrast other nations might be seen to be based around football pitches (as in the UK), restaurants (as in Italy or France) or religious and racial harmony (as in Malaysia). It would not be within the jurisdiction of this article to condemn or condone, apart from suggesting that ‘all work and no play’ makes Jack a dull boy and by raising the fact that even though children as young as five years old start to learn English, Taiwan’s ability on the world stage as regards English communication skills still stands at 138 out of 150 countries (as recently stated by the Taiwan Government and as published in the Taipei Times and China Post Newspapers on 24th September 2004.

All work and no play…………. The western educational system is by no means a model system to follow, most countries systems being openly flawed. It would also be safe to say that the average Western parents dreams of how their child is educated, emphasis being placed on sport or theory without practical subjects seeing dawn, is often wrong or misguided. But over-all it can be said that the average child receives a fair share of varied education and that for the most part, once homework is suitably dispensed with of an evening, the children have free time to play or relax without the pressure of ‘achievement’ hanging over them. It can also be said that weekends and holidays are times for families to be together, for work and the constant pressures of earning money to be locked away till the alarm clock rings on Monday morning. In comparison the Taiwanese way is blatantly flawed with most children suffering from a lack of love and attention at home due to the amount of time that they spend away from it.

A child born in Kaohsiung in 2001 was within the first month of its entry into the world sent to live with the mother in-law during the week. A result of a complaint by the poor child’s father who could not sleep at night! The same child, nearly four years of age, now spends six days a week with the mother-in-law who herself finds little time for the child as she has to run a busy drinks stall, attends a daily nursery with an English theme and a Saturday extra-class in piano. The parents themselves find the logistics of delivering the child to schools, etc interferes with their respective jobs so ………………life goes on!

The idea behind obtaining extra education for ones offspring is certainly heading in the right direction. To wish the best future for your own is admirable but not all of the time. Again, stating recently cited facts by the Taiwan Government, the average educational ability of Taiwanese Children is below that of their western counterparts; despite the fact that allot more money and time is spent on such.

Teaching time……. The principles of educational theory tend to rely heavily on a communist style approach, to drum knowledge facts and numbers into the brain to be regurgitated in times of punishment, exam or for parents to impress the superiority of their son/daughter to neighbours or family. This approach has been the foundation of how schools operate, how curriculums and classrooms are designed and how parents want to see their children being taught. This approach may well have been and probably still is to blame for the rigidness with which many Chinese approach life, the narrow mindedness with which they see the outside world.

The future……………. It is hard battle that is little won, but the idea of teaching using force and punishment and award is the current method. There is though daylight ahead for the thousands of children whose minds switch off during class through boredom or hatred of the subject and/or drill sergeant at the blackboard. Many schools and private educational establishments are seeing a flicker of change in the form of western teachers who bring with them more relaxed and participative methods of imparting information. Sadly, the speck of light that can be seen at the end of this tunnel is small and not growing larger for every step taken. Cultural differences, ideological blocks and the fact that parents themselves view regimented teaching styles as the only way to teach children, they themselves using this style in daily life, hinder great steps in altering this style of teaching.

Many parents will not send their children to modern and culturally off-track schools where games and play are the mainstream of life indoors. Through achievement and result and through government initiative change is perhaps happening. More private schools are opening their doors were westernised standards set the approach and more parents are beginning to see that these schools have more to offer than an equivalent military style approach. Maybe simply due to the fact that children are coming home, happy and with a light in their eyes causes parents to review the very fabric of the institutionalised and narrow minded educational establishment that so restricts and mind boggles every child who passes through its doors, themselves included when once upon a time they were shouted at and punished by evil ogres.

Author and Webmaster of Seamania. A Chief Engineer in the Merchant Navy having sailed the world for twenty years. Living in Taiwan and between trips to sea he writes about cultures across the globe and life as he sees it, mostly with a smile!

Ieuan Dolby may be contacted at http://www.seadolby.com or seamania@seadolby.com


The Taiwanese Bakery
by Ieuan Dolby

Bakeries are to me a place to get some fresh bread so that I may make my cheese sandwiches or have my marmalade on toast in the mornings. For this I require a nice looking, freshly made lump of matter that has recently been mushed together from flour, water, salt and yeast – to name but the necessary ingredients. After this congealed mass has been thoroughly mixed, allowed to sit for a while to gain perspective: all that is required is some heat and a bit more time.

I just want some plain old bread.

The Baking War Recently a baking culture has sprung up in Taiwan that has produced an endless stream of bakeries stretching from department stores, railway stations and school playgrounds to convenience stores, street corners, markets, hotels and offices. Everywhere one goes or looks a bakery or the smell of one can be sensed.

But it is impossible to get a simple loaf of bread in any of them.

It is fashionable to open a bakery. It is fashionable to shop in one and to buy the latest in cream sweetness. Competition is rife with the large chain bakeries fighting pitched battles with the single desperados who may have more money for his project than the chain store who has overstretched.

On one crossroads I recently noted that the pharmacists had closed down to be replaced by a glittering bakery. That made three of them, one on each corner. If I walked half a dozen yards down one street another bakery shines forth and should I wish to visit the local night market another two are always open for business. They are everywhere and the fact that many close down after a short period does not prevent others from starting up.

The Customers Although many bakeries fail along the way many manage to make massive profits and this is due solely to a Taiwanese sudden love for sticky buns, cream cakes and weird and wonderful breads with ‘things’ stuck in them.

On the infrequent occasions when I dare to enter a bakery I can only fight for survival as customers pick up the trays that await them at the door, the pair of tongs that hang nearby: to grab what they can in the melee. Weird assortments are on offer ranging from green been rolls and walnut and raisin bread to yoghourt curried buns and lemon flavored doughnuts.

The Food The bakeries all tend to attack baking in two ways. The side that covers the sweet tooth and this pushes forward the thick cream cakes that have more cream than base and the doughnuts that range in size from large to extra large. And then there is the side that caters to the customers who are after a main course for dinner – the sausage rolls and the sliced chicken filled buns with shredded pork as the coating. Many varieties and styles are available but all tend to follow a similar pattern.

Taiwanese Fashion again intrudes into the way that bakeries operate. Chain Stores are favorable as they become trendy names to be frequented. Single enterprises must live up to fashion requirements by being squeaky clean, new and brash in the goods that they offer. Large glass windows are filled to over flowing with cakes that defy gravity and ooze high cholesterol and sugar. Cakes literally covered in cm’s of icing sugar are dressed with weird and wonderful swirls of chocolate and assortments of green and red glacier cherries and they do not come is suitable sizes – these cakes can be had in sizes ranging from car tires to Ferris wheel monstrosities.

The shops maybe independent stores or chain stores but the food invariable comes from central bakeries and so without fail a cake that can be bought in one shop will be found in another. In the bakeries that operate as a single entity the bread matter is of a better quality but the end result always seems to resemble that of what the Chain bakeries have on offer. Whether this is due to a fear of being different, of becoming unfashionable or because they use the same recipe book I know not: but every shop that I visit and every cake that I sample all seems the same.

Having said all of the above it is not that bad. Certainly some of the sticky buns seem less sweat than a typical chain bread store offering back in the UK and certainly there is plenty of variety available. And when I look at the mothers and families who enter these establishments I can see that they have a massive love for the evening ahead. When they enter the bread shop they are normal human beings but as soon as the tongs and the tray are in their hands it becomes a fight for survival. A sort of madness enters the eyes, wicked lust-like looks shine forth and fight for cakes they will. A queue is something that the “British” do and should I wait behind another to get to a certain tray of cakes I would be there forever. As one desperado leaves another barge’s in - from all angles and corners people fight using elbows and bodies to get to trays and cakes and all with this bulging eye-like fanaticism.

They love their cakes and sticky buns and good on them to.

But I just want my loaf of bread, my simple flour and water mixture, my sandwich making material and my lunch. And this I just cannot get.

Author and Webmaster of Seamania. A Chief Engineer in the Merchant Navy having sailed the world for twenty years. Living in Taiwan and between trips to sea he writes about cultures across the globe and life as he sees it, mostly with a smile!

Ieuan Dolby may be contacted at http://www.seadolby.com or seamania@seadolby.com









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